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    May 2021
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    Garden gazebo

    Garden gazebo

    Allotment gardens are becoming more and more popular and attractive, especially for residents of large cities, who, inhaling car exhaust fumes, often dream of peace at night, silence and a flowery meadow full of buzzing bees. No wonder then, that everyone, even the smallest scrap of free, undeveloped land, especially in peripheral neighborhoods, turns into allotments, often so-called wild, that is, assumed without permission. In such gardens, no one builds gazebos or plant fruit trees, because it is not known, how long can they be operated.

    The situation is different in the case of allotment gardens allocated by communes. If these are typical recreational plots, it is their owners who invest considerable amounts and build small houses, where you can not only spend the night, but also spend the entire vacation.

    If, on the other hand, they are allotment gardens of the arable type, it is their owners who usually build wooden boxes that serve as a storage for tools, harvesting vegetables or fruits either, after equipping them with a basement, used to store all winter supplies, including preserves.

    Recently, a new type of allotment gardens has appeared. Areas designated in the future for industrial investments or for housing construction are for a certain period, at least five years, allocated to individual users for vegetable gardens. Then it is worth building an openwork gazebo in your own garden, which is a great corner to relax. Such a gazebo can be planted with climbing, decorative or functional plants, which introduces a cozy atmosphere and, despite the openwork walls, gives the impression of complete isolation from the surroundings.

    Extremely important is the low total cost of materials necessary for the construction of the gazebo, because all elements can be made of the so-called. kraków, available at low prices in suburban timber yards. The purchased boards have to be cut into elements of the right size and shaved on your own. Manual planing is, unfortunately, more tedious, but seeking help from an appropriate carpentry workshop would increase the cost of the gazebo by at least half.

    You can also make six vertical posts for the load-bearing structure from the knots. In the gazebo we propose - presented in the picture above – they were made of thick planks 1 cala, from which slats of appropriate length and width have been cut 60 mm. These strips were joined in pairs with Epidian glue 53 and reinforced with brass wood screws. In this way, posts with a cross section of about 40 were created×60 mm, which is more than enough for the load-bearing structure, because the gazebo is really very light.

    The entire structure of the building is mounted on six concrete posts with steel angles. Instead, the gazebo can be placed on six stones, pieces of piano-concrete or trylinics. The most important thing is to effectively isolate the wood from the ground, so that it cannot absorb moisture.

    We start our work with making detailed drawings – if we plan a different shape or size of the gazebo than in the picture. Then, using the dimensioned drawings, we calculate the necessary amount of materials. During this activity, we must provide for some allowance in the dimensions of the materials necessary for processing, during which thickness, width, and sometimes even the length of the boards is reduced.

    With the appropriate list of materials, we go to the wood sales point. We also stock up with the necessary number of nails (about 1,5 kg of different sizes) and wood screws, preferably brass. We also buy a roll of roofing felt – of course then, when we plan to make a full roof, and not openwork. In the place provided for development, after cutting and sharpening the material, put on the ground (on an equal footing, horizontal place) two vertical posts forming the rear and front corners (no matter if left, or the right side wall). Put the bottom rail on the posts and nail the wood or screw it with screws. Of course, the vertical posts must lie at a distance equal to the depth of the gazebo. Then align the posts, so that they are parallel to each other, and attach the next side slats: one meter from the bottom rail, and the two upstairs yes, to obtain an even frame of the complete sidewall.

    The method of connecting the corner with the battens is shown in figure a and detail A in figure b, on which you can see, that the post was assembled from two boards.

    In turn, on the finished skeleton of the side wall, place the next two vertical posts of the opposite side wall. On the posts, as previously, we arrange the slats and connect the second wall. By doing this we have a guarantee, that both side walls of the gazebo will be identical, which we cannot be sure of when installing each wall separately. Let's remember, that the two skeletons are different from each other – one must be left, the other is right. Put them vertically after making both side walls, parallel to each other, at a distance equal to the length of the gazebo. Of course, the help of two people will be necessary here. If we don't have helpers, then, at an appropriate distance from each other, dig into the ground two auxiliary rigid slats and lightly nail both skeletons to them. Now we connect the side frames and nail the rear crossbars and the two upper front strips to them. After this treatment, we will obtain an openwork lump in the shape of the future gazebo.

    For the upper ones, attach two additional posts to form a frame on the front crossbars (door frame) the inlet opening. We will then connect these posts with short battens to the vertical posts of the side walls in this way, so that a corner is formed (detail A), in which one of the horizontal slats overlaps the other and is rounded to a fairly large radius.

    Before finishing the side walls of the gazebo, it is necessary to make a supporting structure for the roof. This structure consists of a series of slats, some of which were seated in cross-cut sockets, upper strips of the supporting structure.

    First we make nests. For this purpose, we designate the shape of the sockets in the transverse upper strips, arranging them every 30-40 cm – the exact distance depends on the number of slats defining the roof plane. Then use a saw to cut the vertical edges of the nests, and then we cut out the final shape with a sharp flat chisel. The depth of the sockets should be equal to half the width of the slats (detail E).


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