Strips for wall panels
Selection of the profile and the spacing of the assembly grate
As a rule, the width of the grate slats is 50 mm, thickness 18-25 mm (the most common 20 mm).
The mounting grate always runs perpendicular to the direction of the covering strips.
The center distance of the grate strips will depend on the size of the lined surface, and the shape and dimensions of the lining elements. A few examples of the spacing of the grate slats on ceilings and walls are shown in the drawings.
Drawing. Spacing of grate strips under the ceiling panels: a) boards in full lengths, b) boards of different lengths, c) ceiling panels from longitudinal elements (200X1500 mm), d) ceiling panels with square elements (400X400 mm).
Drawing. The spacing of the grate slats when lining walls with panels: a) boards along the entire height of the wall, b) boards of various random lengths, c) two length wall panels.
Fastening of the grate slats
The grate can be attached to brickwork or concrete in several ways:
- with a screw with a plastic insert,
- with a screw and a plaster conical plug,
- with a screw and a glued in wooden dowel,
- with the help of a stud.
Steel nails can be hammered into a brick wall with a heavy hammer (no shooting needed). When shooting, eyes must be protected with glasses.
The easiest way to screw the strips to the wall is by using screws with plastic plugs.
And now we give you the method of mounting the grate strips. First, in a scaffolding slat, co 50 cm, drill holes with a diameter of approx 1 mm larger than the screws diameter. We put the skirting board against the wall (ceiling) and mark the centers of the drilled holes. Steel punch, which holes are marked on the wall must have a diameter of approx 0,5 mm smaller than the diameter of the hole in the strip.
Widia drill bits with a diameter are used to drill holes in brick masonry or concrete 8 mm and drills with a percussion adapter, which has this advantage, that it greatly speeds up work. The depth of the hole should be 1-3 mm greater than the length of the dowel. We choose these pins, to match the diameter of your drill bit.
Pegs are hammered into all holes and the slats are screwed to them, taking into account the appropriate leveling washers. In this way, we get a perfectly flat plane.
Metoda mocowania rusztu na zagipsowane kostki z drewna jest powszechnie znana. It is a laborious method, and also requires technological breaks. The implementation is as follows. First, we prepare cubes of wood in the form of truncated pyramids with a square base and base dimensions of 50X50 and 40X40 and the height 40 mm. We punch square holes in the wall with slightly larger dimensions and depths above 40 mm (in concrete, this method is not used; the entire batten is poured into concrete earlier). Sprinkle the hole with water and plaster the cubes. The gypsum should dry for at least a day.
Gypsum mortar is sometimes not prepared properly. Water is poured into the plaster and mixed later. In this way, the prepared mortar sets too quickly. Therefore, we provide such a method of preparing gypsum mortar, in which the setting time is much longer and its strength does not suffer. Pour water into a suitably large vessel, the amount of which depends on the need for mortar. Slowly pour the gypsum into the water without mixing it. The gypsum powder slowly settles to the bottom and becomes saturated with water. We sleep for so long, until no more water seeps through the settling cone. Use a spatula to extract the necessary amount from the mass prepared in this way. Try not to mix the solution. If you don't know this way, you will be surprised, yes , the mortar works well and does not harden for a relatively long time.
Fixing the scraper slats to plastered wooden dowels is just as effective, however, longer plugs and screws must be used, because the shear strength of the wood along the grain is lower than across the grain. The method of attachment in this case is as follows:
We prepare long, e.g.. half-meter dowels of pine or spruce wood in diameter 12 mm. The dowel must fit snugly into the drilled hole, but it should get hit with a hammer. After drilling holes in the slats, putting their funds on the wall (ceiling) and drilling holes in the wall, we measure the depth of the holes and cut off the pins of the appropriate length. Put some glue into the hole (for concrete, e.g.. Mazolep, bone glue for brick) and hammer the peg flush with the wall surface. In the center of the plugs, drill holes with a diameter equal to the diameter of the screw core and screw the entire grate.
The given method of attaching the grate to wooden pegs is more laborious than attaching it to plastic pegs.
Fixing the grate to the concrete by shooting steel pins is very quick, but the following difficulties may arise:
- uneven density of concrete may cause the dowel to penetrate deeper in a place with thinner concrete and the batten to split,
- leaving the head protruding in denser concrete, which can be knocked down with a heavy hammer. However, it should be noted, that shooting may only be carried out by specialized persons with special authorization.
Check all the grate strips, that the grate surface is even, and remove any deviations.